WHY THE AMALFI OFF-SEASON IS STILL A SUNNY SPECTACULAR — WITH LESS CROWDS TOO
The Amalfi Coast is rich in old Hollywood history, according to 70-something Michelangelo – a born and bred Amalfitani and my tour guide.
We were cruising along the Tyrrhenian Sea across some of the 13 main towns that make up the famously luxurious 50km Italian coastline – and each port has a story to tell.
In Ravello, actress Greta Garbo and conductor Leopold Stokowski reportedly had an affair (there’s even a plaque on the wall at Villa Cimbrone), while the likes of Liza Minnelli and Tennessee Williams have stayed in Positano.
Actors Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton’s relationship was famously branded ‘erotic vagrancy’ by the Vatican after they had a tryst while on the Italian set of Cleopatra.
In fact, their ‘favourite’ holiday spot was rumoured to be Hotel Santa Caterina in Amalfi – which has been operating for 120 years. Just a couple of months earlier, I’m told a very furtive Bill Gates stayed at this hotel too and even went on a private yacht with Jeff Bezos.
And that’s exactly where I stayed for four days and three nights at the end of October, considered the low season for the Amalfi Coast.
For those looking to book an off-season getaway, now is the time to start planning – and don’t be put off by the fact that you won’t be visiting during a less popular time. There was still so much on offer – and I’m told a lot less crowds than the high tourist season between June and August.
After arriving at Naples airport on Sunday morning, a 1.5 hour transfer saw us drive through winding cliffs towards striking sea views.
Enter, the small town of Amalfi – the main historical and political centre, where the coast gets its name from – spanning over just two square miles and mainly built into the towering rock face.
Once checking into the hotel, the first thing on the agenda was an Aperol spritz on the gorgeous balcony with panoramic views of the sea.
Soaking in the sun and sipping on a cocktail while feeling a cool seabreeze felt like the perfect way to start the trip.
That’s not the only view I was treated to during my stay, with my room having a beautiful seafront balcony with private seating (except for one very sleepy cat).
On top of that, I had a bathroom that was bigger than my small East London flat’s entire living room, including a spacious tub and shower.
The perfect touch was the small selection of sweet treats welcoming me to the hotel, including chocolate-coated strawberries, small cakes and macarons.
And the incredible food didn’t stop there. Hotel Santa Caterina boasts two restaurants – the beachfront Al Mare and fine dining Michelin-starred restaurant, Glicine.
In the slightly altered wise words of The Golden Girls’ Sophia Petrillo: Picture it, Amalfi 2024. You’re sitting in Al Mare as the sun sets and a small band softly plays in the background. You order the spaghetti with lemon cream sauce (side note: a clever combination I never thought to try until this trip) with a crisp locally-sourced Marisa Cuomo white wine and a decadent tiramisu for dessert.
Or you get dressed up for an ever-changing tasting menu by chef Giuseppe Stanzione, including a smoked risotto with scampi and lemon (sensing a theme here? Amalfi is famous for its lemons), seared veal fillet and selection of small but rich desserts.
I tried a delicious aubergine mousse in the shape of an olive, as well a lemon sorbet coated in white chocolate in – you guessed it – the shape of a lemon. I’m told the menu is constantly updated for the freshest seasonal ingredients though.
I could rave about the hotel – including the beach club with cliffside pool, gym overlooking the sea and relaxing spa treatments – but that’s just scratching the surface of what to do in Amalfi.
One of my favourite activities was the cooking class at the Amalfi Lemon Experience (€180, £153).
Tucked into the mountains and surrounded by lemon groves, this generations-long family-run business teaches simple dishes like aubergine parmigiana, lemon pasta and lemon cake. If you can squeeze in one more lemon flavour, try the limoncello too.
For a slightly weather-dependent activity, Hotel Santa Caterina can help organise a private boat with a guide to tell you all about the Amalfi Coast (starting around €1,400/£1,200).
With a glass of fizz in hand, this is where I saw sites like Fiordo di Furore (a breathtaking bridge over a beach) and the gorgeous former home of Sophia Loren in the distance.
Amalfi on a shoestring
Amalfi is beloved by the A-list, but you can still experience the beauty of Italy’s famous coast without breaking the bank…
Budget beaches
Fiordo di Furore beach is completely free to visit – but this isn’t just any old sandy beach. A stretch of water that carves its way through two sheer rock faces, and creates a valley that opens out into the sea – it is quite a sight to behold. You can get there via bus, and there’s a set of stairs that go down to a small beach.
There’s also Spiaggia Libera beach is also free, but reviewers note that it’s pretty busy, so you might want to get there early.
Food glorious food
Luisa Gastronomia Artigianale is specialty sandwich shop, owned by a husband and wife who run it with the help of their daughter. Made using fresh ingredients, think hearty gourmet paninis filled with ingredients like mortadella, provolone and juicy tomatoes. The sandwiches cost around £8.
Or, if you’ve got a sweet tooth, head to Cioccolato e Gelato Andrea Pansa. With a focus on top quality ingredients, you can pick up lemon sorbets and ice cream made using the owner’s grandmother’s original recipe.
A spot of culture
The Duomo di Amalfi is a stunning Roman Catholic cathedral and is €3 to enter. The church dominates Amalfi’s main square, with a huge staircase that sets the cathedral 20m above street level. Inside, there’s the Cloister of Paradise and the Basilica of the Crucifix, which was the original church built and dates back to the 6th century.
For something a little more unusual, head to the Museum of Paper. For a £5 entry free, you can enter the 14th century paper mill, and learn all about how the production of paper began here.
And finally, if you fancy a spot of shopping, there’s the Ruga Nova Mercatorum, a busy area with boutiques and street vendors. You’ll also find street performers and a historic fountain. The street also has an ocean view – you can easily while away a few hours here.
Amalfi may be known for its glamorous celebrities – did I mention Kim Kardashian stayed in Hotel Santa Caterina during her short-lived marriage to Kris Humphries – but that doesn’t mean everything needs to cost a small fortune.
Get a scoop of sorbet and soak in the Amalfi sun at the beach, wander the streets to discover small local shops, go on a walking tour – including the mediaeval Roman Catholic Duomo di Amalfi (Amalfi Cathedral), which is dedicated to Apostle Saint Andrew – or visit the Museo della Carta, which is the oldest paper mill in Europe.
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Whatever you do, embrace the attitude of the locals like Michelangelo, who told me that the best thing to do in this small Italian town is to slow down and relax.
Hollywood celebrities aren’t the only ones who deserve to experience the A-lister luxury treatment in Amalfi.
Getting there:
James stayed in an executive partial sea view double room at Hotel Santa Caterina (hotelsantacaterina.it/en/) where rooms start at €454 (£388) per night.
Flights from London Gatwick to Naples start at £80 round trip with EasyJet (easyjet.com/).
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