I received the dreaded email a week before my flight: ‘Your trip has been cancelled.’
Scrambling to book a holiday only seven days in advance in May, I searched ‘everywhere’ on SkyScanner, until I stopped on a name I recognised. Cádiz, in Spain, had always been on my bucket list and the weather was looking particularly good.
I’ve been on three solo trips so far (Bulgaria, Poland and Spain) and started the tradition accidentally when I was 21-years-old and had no one to go on holiday with.
Now, it’s become an important part of looking after my mental health. My trips have completely cured my social anxiety and I always feel like I’ve had ten therapy sessions injected into my veins when I return.
Andalusia was on my solo travel bucket list as I wanted to go to as many historical sights as possible, and that’s not something my boyfriend or friends always agree with.
Upon arriving in the city, I quickly realised a walk through Cádiz is like travelling in time – a Roman theatre, a grand Gothic Spanish cathedral and Moorish whitewashed homes, all within a five-minute walk.
Cádiz is a 3,000-year-old city – one of the oldest in Western Europe – with its streets painted by the generations who once lived there, from the Moors to sailors.
Its main sights, from the pristine beach to the bustling market are all just 15 minutes’ walk from each other, so you’re unlikely to need transport.
The thing that shocked me the most, though, was the lack of tourists. To me, it seemed that most travellers were pensioners taking a one-day stop as part of their cruise itinerary. I didn’t see a single Brit under 65.
So if you’re not a fan of big crowds, this lesser-known gem could be the perfect for you.
Getting to the Southern city in the Andalusia province isn’t straightforward, but it’s pretty easy.
You need to fly around three hours to Seville, then get an hour-and-a-half-long coach or train to Cádiz.
I opted for the coach (it was only £11 one way, and saw luxuries I could only wish for in the UK – a TV on the bus, with movies, games, books and even free Internet access! A dream.)
The train is a bit more expensive, averaging £20 to £30 depending on when you visit.
If you prefer 25°C weather and not sweltering, May would be the best time to go. Cádiz is quite a windy city so it’s generally cooler than other places in Andalusia, like Seville.
If you’re in a rush, you could see Cádiz in 48 hours, but I’d recommend staying for four days so you can see all the city has to offer.
My Ryanair flight was £114 one-way, but I upgraded to include priority and a suitcase as I was going for seven days.
Thankfully, the average flight price to Seville isn’t always three digits. Flights in September are as little as £28 one-way, according to SkyScanner.
Whenever I’m on holiday, I prefer staying in an Airbnb as I like to feel like a local. You know, buy fresh ingredients from the local market, whip up a good breakfast and pretend I actually live there.
That’s why I booked a one-bed apartment right in the centre of the old town for £68 a night.
I felt like the main character in a movie, popping into the local bakery before heading to the beach with a book in my hand.
My modest Airbnb was light and airy, tastefully decorated, with large windows that I could fling open and watch the world go by in the streets below.
If a hotel breakfast and daily cleaning is more your thing, there are plenty of hotels tucked in the Old Town and along the beach, but on average it’ll cost you around £150 to £1,000 more, depending on your taste and budget.
I spent my days in the best possible way: drinking iced coffee and eating Turròn ice cream (Turròn is a Spanish nougat sweet, and the ice cream tastes like burnt caramel) in the stunning Cafe Royalty, a historic cafe which has been serving Gaditani (that’s people who hail from Cádiz) since 1912.
That was proceeded by a long day of lying down at the beach and shifting between swimming, reading and doing nothing.
Cádiz has multiple beaches, and I found all of them to be clean, sandy and accessible by foot — Playa Santa Maria del Mar (pictured) was my favourite. Plus, at some beaches, I was the only person there.
But sunbathing by the sea is not all Cádiz has to offer. The Andalusian city competes with some of Spain’s best foodie cities for the ultimate gastronomical experience.
Take my word for it and head to Cádiz Central Market first, which sells produce during the day and then turns into a food market with dozens of independent stalls at night.
I ate sushi — yes, not Spanish — made with Tuna freshly caught in Cádiz and bought from the market that day. It was the perfect way to try the local produce without cooking it.
There are tons of mouth-watering restaurants too, from locally caught seafood eaten in rustic bars to fine dining. It gets even better – I went to the fancy, expensive restaurants, ordered multiple courses and drinks, and never spent over £35.
I made up my own food tour list after some research and visited Cafe Lazo, a bar that sells the best Gambos al Ajillo (Prawns in oil and garlic.) For something a little less traditional, I headed to The Tapería of Columela, where I ate three dishes (pictured) for £30 in total. Normally you get a starter, main and dessert, but I don’t have much of a sweet tooth – and I was hungry.
The bill included fresh lemonade and still water. It might have been more expensive if I ordered alcohol, but I saved money as I don’t drink.
I loved the food in the restaurants, I really did, but my favourite thing I ate (or should I say drank) was the gazpacho (cold Spanish soup) that I bought by the litre at the supermarket. Paired with some crisps and a sandwich, it was chef’s kiss.
For history and culture, the ruins of the Roman theatre are free to enter, and tickets to the cathedral range between £1.70 to £3.40.
In my opinion, the best cultural thing to do is to walk through the Old Town. I spent hours getting lost in the narrow, cobbled streets – no complaints.
You could easily spend all your time in Cádiz, but the coastal city has great transport links, making it easy to explore all of Andalusia.
I headed to Seville for £11 on the coach. The city boasts the largest historic centre in Europe. I spent the day watching multiple Flamenco shows (thanks to spontaneous street performers), getting lost in the old town, and my favourite, visiting Plaza de España. The landmark representing different regions of Spain made my architecture-loving heart very happy.
For once I didn’t follow a cliché and unfortunately didn’t eat any olives — one for next time.
Other places are a bit closer than Seville, though. Jerez de la Frontera, famous for its sherry wine, Flamenco culture and Moorish fortress, is only a 35-minute bus ride away.
I absolutely loved my week in Cádiz, but next time I’d add also Donana National Park to my itinerary.
The wetlands are home to flamingos, lynxes, glossy ibises and more, and I always love a good wildlife spot. Plus, it helps that it’s only a 44-minute drive away from the city.
My verdict? Cádiz had sun, sand, history and it was pretty quiet. If you’re a lover of good food and budget trips that don’t feel cheap, it’s the best place to go.
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2024-07-04T10:47:44Z dg43tfdfdgfd